Crochet Turtle Pattern - Finished turtle

Here is an easy to follow amigurumi crochet tutorial to make a cute turtle.  We have listed the items needed to make this turtle beneath the tutorial. We hope you enjoy :-)



  • Kismet’s 50/50 DK Yarn; you will need a cream yarn (head, limbs, bottom of shell), white yarn (tube around the shell) and two shades of a colour for the shell (one darker and one lighter, e.g. dark and light green, dark and light pink, dark and light blue, etc)
  • 30 g Cream
  • 23 g Light Green
  • 22 g White
  • 2 g Dark Green
  • 4.0 mm Crochet Hook
  • Yarn needle
  • Hollowfibre
  • 10 mm x 8 mm oval safety eyes
  • Black embroidery floss (for mouth and eyelashes)
  • 4 mm pink brads for cheeks
  • Lock ring stitch markers


  • I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds) unless otherwise indicated.
  • Begin pieces with the Magic Circle and use the Invisible Decrease to minimize number of holes and bumps.
  • Darker colour is stitched onto shell using Surface Crochet.
  • Choose any colours you like for the turtle shell: a lighter shade for the actual shell, and a darker shade for the surface crochet accents!

Finished Dimensions:

7” long, 5” wide, 3” tall


crochet a turtle



With cream yarn,
Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)
R6-11: Sc 30. (30 sts)
R12: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)

Place safety eyes between Rounds 10 and 11, about 5 stitches apart. Place pink brads for cheeks beside eyes, also between Rounds 10 and 11. Embroider mouth if desired. Begin stuffing head.

R13: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R14: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)

Finish stuffing head.
R15: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts).
Fasten off and weave in end.


Crochet Turtle Pattern - Head of turtle


ARMS/LEGS (make 4)

With cream yarn,
Round 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring. (8 sts)
R2: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 4 times. (12 sts)
R3-10: Sc 12. (12 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.


With cream yarn,
Round 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring. (4 sts)
R2: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 2 times. (6 sts)
R3-4: Sc 6. (6 sts).
R5: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 2 times. (8 sts)
R6: Sc 8. (8 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Do not stuff.


Using light green,
Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, Inc*, rep 6 times. (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, Inc*, rep 6 times. (42 sts)
R8: *Sc 6, Inc*, rep 6 times. (48 sts)
R9: *Sc 7, Inc*, rep 6 times. (54 sts)
R10: *Sc 8, Inc*, rep 6 times. (60 sts)
R11-21: Sc 60. (60 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.

Adding Surface Crochet Detailing to Shell:

To add some detail and accents to the turtle shell, we will use a technique called surface crochet with the darker green yarn. Surface crochet is a way to add slip stitches onto the surface of a piece that gives a very clean look, and you can choose any direction you would like to crochet (it’s very free form as you could even stitch a letter or a design).

Follow the steps below:

Insert your crochet hook into the turtle shell where you would like to begin.
With the darker green yarn being underneath the shell, pull up a loop.
Insert your crochet hook back into the shell in the direction that you would like to surface crochet.
Pull up the darker green yarn from underneath the shell and continue to pull through the loop on the hook. One stitch has been surface crocheted onto the shell!


Crochet Turtle Pattern - Shell of turtle


Using darker green, surface crochet circle (between Rounds 6 and 7) and six lines onto shell.



Using cream yarn,
Round 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R2: Inc around. (12 sts)
R3: *Sc 1, Inc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 2, Inc*, rep 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: *Sc 3, Inc*, rep 6 times. (30 sts)
R6: *Sc 4, Inc*, rep 6 times. (36 sts)
R7: *Sc 5, Inc*, rep 6 times. (42 sts)
R8: *Sc 6, Inc*, rep 6 times. (48 sts)
R9: *Sc 7, Inc*, rep 6 times. (54 sts)
R10: *Sc 8, Inc*, rep 6 times. (60 sts)
R11: Sc 60. (60 sts)

Fasten off.



Using white yarn,
Chain 10, join with sl st to form ring (be careful not to twist the chain).
Round 1: Sc 10 around. (10 sts)
Rounds 2-68 or until desired length is achieved: Sc 10. (10 sts)

Stuff lightly as you go. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.



Stuff top shell gently so that bottom shell does not puff out when they are attached together. Sew top shell onto bottom shell.

Crochet Turtle Pattern - Bottom shell of turtle


Sew head onto front of shell and tail onto back of shell. Stuff arms and legs. Place arms on either side of head and sew onto shell. Place legs on either side of tail and sew onto shell.


Crochet Turtle Pattern - Putting the turtle together


Place white tube around shell and on top of limbs, head and tail. Rather than whip stitching around the entire tube, you can use several points of attachment to secure the white tube onto the shell. Cut a strand of white yarn, insert it through the bottom of the turtle, through the bottom of the tube, and back down through the turtle (about one stitch away from point of first insertion) and tie several knots. For our turtle, we used FIVE points of attachment to secure the white tube into place: in the head (which tags down two spots- see further explanation below), on both sides of the shell, and towards the tail (for this point we inserted the needle through the tube first, then the shell, and then back through the tube).


Crochet Turtle Pattern - Attachment points of turtle


In order to make the white tube wrap around the head more snugly, tag the white tube down in two different locations through the head as shown below.


Crochet Turtle Pattern - Attachment points of turtle 2


Enjoy crocheting your own sweet turtles using your favourite colours!

Give them a variety of expressions and details such as eyelashes, smiles or even special letters or designs on the shell! Personalize your amigurumi to your heart’s content!

Crochet Turtle Pattern - Accessorizing your turtle

Send us a pic of your turtle @global_unique_fabrics


  • 309 - 50/50 yarn by kismet
  • 319 - 50/50 yarn by kismet
  • 322 - 50/50 yarn by kismet
  • 325 - 50/50 yarn by kismet
  • 326 - 50/50 yarn by kismet
Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

The very first step in almost all knitting projects is casting-on, which is what I’ll be teaching you today. So what are you waiting for? Go grab some knitting needles and yarn, and let’s get you started on your knitting journey!

  • Knitting needles
  • Yarn (make sure the weight of your yarn corresponds with the size of your knitting needles)

Check out the following video to learn how to cast-on.

Final product image
What You’ll Be Creating

Double knitting is an interesting and unique technique, and it’s the perfect skill to tackle for intermediate knitters who are looking for a new challenge. It creates a dense, smooth fabric that’s completely reversible, and it will make you feel so clever as it comes off your needles. Double knitting is the perfect technique for making projects that you’ll see both sides of, like scarves, and it’s also great for making reversible projects, like a reversible beanie.

  • Knitting needles
  • Two balls of yarn in contrasting colors

A two-stranded tubular cast-on creates an attractive edge and gets the sequence started for plain, solid-colored rows.

To increase and decrease in double knitting, you’ll first need to know how to increase and decrease on simpler knits.

Charts for double knitting can be a little confusing at first, but if you focus on what your knitting will look like once it’s off your needles and remember that you’re knitting both sides at the same time, you’ll have good results.

When you’re all done, combine decreases with a basic bind-off to finish your double knitting. Weave in your ends, and don’t forget to block your knitting!

Now that you’ve learned how to cast on, add shaping, follow a chart, and bind off, you’re ready to take on any double-knitting project. Why not design your own chart? Use graph paper and colored pencils to create your own double-knitting chart and experiment with the technique.

One of the best things about hand-knitting is the ability to create an entire project seamlessly, but in order to avoid having to use seams to attach those delightful details like neck bands and button bands, the art of picking up stitches from vertical and horizontal edges needs to be mastered. Although picking up stitches can be a frustratingly slow process, it’s a surprisingly simple technique.

  • Yarn
  • Knitting needles
  • Your knitting project


To pick up stitches from a horizontal edge, insert your needle into the center of a stitch in the row below the cast-on edge where you’d like your new stitches to be.

Bring your yarn around as if to knit, and pull the new loop through while slipping your original knitting off over it to create a stitch. You should pick up approximately one stitch for every stitch in your original knitting to avoid rippling and bunching.

To pick up stitches from a vertical edge, insert your needle underneath the bar running in between the edge stitch column and the rest of your knitting.

Wrap your yarn around your needle as if to knit, and pull the new loop through while slipping the bar off over it to create a stitch. To keep things perfectly flat, you should pick up approximately two stitches for every three rows on your original knitting, or use your gauge to find the best ratio for your project.


Now learn how to pick up stitches from both a vertical and horizontal edge in this video!

Now that you’ve learned how to pick up stitches on both vertical and horizontal edges, you’re ready to add ribbing to a neckline or add a border to an obstinately curling stockinette scarf. You’ll find that this skill is one that you’ll use again and again on your knitting projects.

Why not practice picking up stitches by knitting a pair of convertible mittens?

Patterns that come in multiple sizes are typically written with the smallest size first and the other sizes in brackets or parentheses like S (M, L, XL). When reading the pattern, wherever the numbers differ between sizes, they will be listed in the same format, and you will keep track of your size based on that.

If a pattern tells you to cast on 10 (12, 14, 16) stitches, and you want to knit the size L, you would cast on 14 stitches because that is the number that corresponds with the size L in the parentheses.


To choose the perfect size and get the best fit, you’ll need to reference the schematic measurements or list of final measurements, which are also frequently formatted in parentheses.

To be sure that you’ve picked the right size, check all of the measurements that correspond to your size and compare them to your own measurements. Knitting patterns have their own standards, and simply picking the size that you’re used to wearing in store-bought clothing won’t always work for you.

When choosing what size to knit, it’s important to understand ease. Ease is the amount of extra fabric that allows for drape and movement. A sweater with zero ease will match your measurements exactly. A sweater with two inches of ease will be slightly looser. A garment has negative ease when it’s smaller than the wearer, and because knits are stretchy, you can comfortably wear sweaters with negative ease for a snugger, more fitted look.

Although ease is most frequently mentioned when referring to garments, it’s also important to understand the amount of ease you prefer in accessories. Headbands and hats fit snugly with negative ease and are unlikely to slip out of place, but hats with positive ease are less likely to crush your hair style.

To get an idea of what amount of ease you like to wear, measure some of your store-bought sweaters and accessories and compare them to your own measurements.


A pattern’s schematic lists the final measurements of the project, and when you’re looking at it to choose your size, you’ll have to keep in mind the amount of ease you prefer, as well as the pattern’s recommendation.

Let’s imagine we have a sweater pattern that includes sizes S (M, L, XL). The schematic lists the finished measurements as 34 (38, 42, 46) inches. If you have a 40 inch bust and you’re trying to choose a size when the pattern recommends 2–3 inches of negative ease, you’d want to knit the size M with a 38 inch bust measurement. If the pattern recommends 2–3 inches of positive ease, you’d want to knit the size L with a 42 inch bust measurement.

Some patterns will include measurements “to fit” when listing the sizes. These measurements have the recommended ease incorporated into them, and you simply need to pick the size with measurements that most closely match your own.

Yarn comes in a variety of sizes known as weights. The most common names for the sizes from smallest to largest are lace, fingering, sport, DK or double knit, worsted, aran, bulky, and super bulky. Yarns often don’t include their weight on their packaging, and it can take some experience and practice to learn the different weights.

When substituting yarn in a pattern, look at the recommended needle size and gauge in the pattern and compare it to the recommended needle size and gauge on the yarn’s packaging. This will help point you in the right direction for most patterns.



Different fibers have different qualities, and it’s important to keep that in mind when you substitute yarn. Choose yarns with similar fibers or with similar qualities. Here are some of the more common fibers you’ll run across:

Fiber Qualities Best For
Wool Elastic, “sticky,” and warm Fitted garments, winter accessories, and colorwork
Cotton Inelastic, washable, and smooth Summer tops and household goods
Acrylic and Nylon Elastic, hard-wearing, and washable Sturdy projects
Silk Drapey and smooth All-season projects
Alpaca Drapey and warm Winter accessories

Before you dive into a pattern, you need to knit a swatch to make sure that the needles and yarn you choose will give you the recommended gauge. The entire pattern is calculated based on the recommended gauge, and if you’re knitting with a different number of stitches and rows than what is recommended, your project will end up too big or too small. Being off by just fraction can ruin a larger project because those fractions add up.

For the best results, knit a large swatch and wash and block it. Many yarns bloom or grow when they’re first washed because of the spinning process and/or their fiber content, so it’s important to wash your swatch if you plan on ever washing your project. Once your swatch has dried, measure your gauge over a larger area.

If your gauge is too big, try knitting a new swatch on a smaller needle size. If you gauge is too small, try a larger needle size. To save time, I like to knit two or three swatches with different needles all at once so I can wash and block all of my swatches together.

Although it can be frustrating to go through this process when you’re ready to dive into a new project, it will spare you the grief of knitting a whole sweater only to have it turn out gorilla-sized after you wash it for the first time.

Abbreviation Meaning
BO Bind off
CBN Cable needle
CC Contrast color
CM Centimeter
CO Cast on
Cont Continue
Dec Decrease
DPN Double pointed needle
FT Feet
G Gram
IN Inch
Inc Increase
K Knit
KFB Knit front and back; one stitch increase
K2Tog Knit two together; one stitch decrease
K3Tog Knit three together; two stitch decrease
KWise Knitwise
LP Loop
M Meters
M1 Make one; one stitch increase
MC Main Color
MM Millimeter
OZ Ounces
P Purl
PM Place marker
P2Tog Purl two together; one stitch decrease
PSSO Pass slipped stitch over
PWise Purlwise
Prev Previous
Rep Repeat
Rev STST Reverse stockinette stitch
RND Round
RS Right side
SL Slip
SM Slip marker
SK2P Slip one, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over; two stitch decrease
SSK Slip, slip, knit slipped together; one stitch decrease
SSP Slip, slip, purl slipped together; one stitch decrease
ST(S) Stitch(es)
STST Stockinette stitch
TBL Through the back loop
Tog Together
WS Wrong side
WYIB With yarn in back
WYIF With yarn in front
YD Yard
YO Yarn over; one stitch increase
Phrase Meaning
* ; Rep from * Repeat the instructions in between the asterix and the semicolon as many times as stated.
[ ] X times Repeat the instructions in the bracket as many times as stated (X).
At the same time Work these instructions at the same time as the previous instructions. This instruction is most frequently used when shaping or color work needs to be incorporated at the same time as other instructions. Pay close attention and be sure to read ahead.
Continue to work as established Repeat the general instructions of the previous set of rows. You may see this instruction when you’re working sets of short rows with each row one stitch longer than the last, when you’re working one shaping row and a handful of plain rows a certain number of times, or when you’re simply repeating a stitch pattern.
Reverse shaping This instruction is typically included for pieces with a matched left and right. Work the shaping opposite as before, moving increases or decreases from the left side to the right or vice versus and switching left slanting stitches like SSK with right slanting stitches like K2TOG and right slanting stitches with left slanting stitches. This will create mirrored pieces.
Work as for X Follow the same instructions as for the given piece or section (X).
Work even Work in the given stitches patterns without increasing or decreasing.
X to end Work to the end of the row or round using the stitch or stitch pattern given (X).

Whether they’re lace, cables, or colorwork, all charts typically show the right side view of the stitch pattern and have to be used accordingly. Working from the bottom up (like how your stitches appear on your needles), right side rows and all rounds are read from right to left.

Wrong side rows are read from left to right, and the wrong side equivalents of the stitches are used. A blank square is typically used to indicate a knit stitch on the right side and a purl stitch on the wrong side.


The sample chart is as follows when worked flat:

Row 1: P1, k1, yo, k2tog.
Row 2: P3, k1.
Row 3: P1, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 2: P3, k1.

When worked in the round, it’s read slightly differently:

Round 1: P1, k1, yo, k2tog.
Round 2: P1, k3.
Round 3: P1, yo, k2tog, k1.
Round 2: P1, k3.